Sunday 30 June 2013

Camp Carter & Falls

Camp Carter is built on an old farmstead near the town of New Harris, Cape Breton. To get there, it is just a short drive up Big Harbour Road, on the north side of the Seal Island Bridge. There are a few geocaches near the main campground that you may wish to check out, as well as ample parking. From there, the trail-head to the actual falls trail is just a short walk back in the direction you came from. To your right, you'll see a small waterfall, with the larger being across the road and a short jaunt up.

Lower falls, as seen from the opposite side of the road to the trail that leads to the main falls.


There is a rope to help you climb above the main falls.








While I don't wish to plaster my own face all over this blog, I happened to not get any good photographs of the falls that didn't have Russell or myself in them. I've seen a few photographs online that show the falls during times of low water, but we were lucky enough to see it on a powerful day after a few days of rainfall. 

 
Geocaches in Area:
"Camp Carter 'Scouts'" N 46° 13.783 W 060° 31.012 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GC2K8XQ
"Camp Carter 'Cubs'" N 46° 13.716 W 060° 31.105 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GC2K8X9
"Camp Carter 'Beavers'" N 46° 13.620 W 060° 31.027 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GC2K8RX
"I Fall 4 U" N 46° 13.645 W 060° 30.891 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GCJPB8
"Camp Carter Falls/Steeves Memorial Scouts #5" N 46° 13.645 W 060° 30.922 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GC1WAQP
"On a hippie trail, head full of zombie" N 46° 13.538 W 060° 30.880 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GC3TYQN
"Be Prepared" N 46° 13.694' W 060° 30.656 Status: Good (2013-06-30) GC3DTDJ












Monday 24 June 2013

Shean Trail: Kenloch Church to Black River

For an introduction to the Shean segment of the rail-trail, see my post: Shean Trail: Inverness to Kenloch Church. It was written in much better humor than this will be, and reading both may provide a better spectrum of experiences to be had on the TCT (the Trans-Canada Trail).

As mentioned in that last post, I use the TCT in Inverness County primarily for biking. Just shy of a 100 kilometers and built on a stripped rail-bed, the trail is long and flat, and might be considered quite boring on foot. Once you know it well, you can do it in segments, and choose your favorites (i.e. start in Mabou, and do the couple of kilometers that are near the Mabou Rivers, and so on). Even so, if you are by yourself and haven't a second vehicle parked at your end-point, you then have to turn around and walk the same, flat hike back--very different from mountainous hiking, where at least you'd have the different viewpoints and experiences of walking either down or up from where you turned around. While on a bike, I still have to return by the same route (or switch to the highway, though I'm not much of a road-biker), but at least I'm covering more ground in the time I have.

In any case, I had the bike with me today to cover the stretch from Kenloch Church to Black River, which I hadn't done in a couple of years. I was in rather pissy cheer to begin with, and this route just cemented that for me. We had received a bit of rain over the last few days, but no floods or wash-outs, so I didn't anticipate this to be a problem before leaving. Once I began, however, I found that this segment of the trail had recently been re-graveled in many spots. The top was soft, and made for a much more arduous bike-ride than I anticipated. Coupled with the maddening presence of every mosquito and black fly imaginable, it was a rough day that I thought couldn't be made any worse until I hit a "good" patch of trail, started speeding up, and then flew into a hole at the wrong angle at the end of this bridge under repair.


But HA! Things can always become worse. After biking to a few geocaches that were hidden in areas of extreme mosquito concentration and of no considerable sightseeing worth, and after putting in some considerable effort on soft ground, I met a couple of dump trucks on the trail. The trail is just wide enough for these vehicles, and grooming or maintenance can take place at anytime. Shortly after meeting them, I turned around, expecting my ride to be the same (not good, but not worse). And...of course, the trucks were out dumping more fresh dirt. Even keeping my tires upon their own flattened tracks, it still felt like biking on a sandy beach--brutal.



There was only one pleasant factor to today's segment--the lovely breeze that followed me along Lake Ainslie at the beginning and end to my ride. While it didn't exactly blow my frustrations away, it did dry my sweat and blow the mosquitoes off my neck.


Geocaches in Area:
"Hurricane Series":
N 46° 11.093 W 061° 16.326 GC2ET2V
N 46° 09.423 W 061° 16.678  GC2ET2Q
N 46° 08.544 W 061° 17.763 GC2ET2K
N 46° 07.993 W 061° 18.939 GC2ET2F
(Statuses: All good 2013-06-24)

Thursday 20 June 2013

Silver Fox Falls

Yes! A must-do! Soon after a mildly painful walk into Righwash Brook Falls (not because of its length but because of high water, rain, rock scum, and the decision to go at twilight), I suggested we do Silver Fox Falls. I was truly hoping that this would be a better and easier experience since we were just intending on a short evening trek, and I was not disappointed. It's easy to find, easy to get to (despite a small amount of brook-navigating), and easy to enjoy.

Near the old (and now closed) Cheticamp Building Supplies, lies an old dirt road at N46 34.798 W061 01.365. We were driving the Civic so parked at the home on the hill and followed the trail. An ATV would be able to continue on and drive almost right to the falls.




A natural tub--a small pool just above the falls, surrounded by rock.

Hopping up to the top of the falls is surprisingly easy--both of us had no trouble, even without rope, since there were a lot of footholds.


Geocaches in Area:
"Silver Fox Falls" N 46° 34.292 W 060° 59.845 Status: Probably missing (2013-06-20)



Tuesday 18 June 2013

Random Road: Lake Ainslie Edition

Most seasoned service workers in Inverness County (wait staff, gas pumpers, etc.) have been asked this question by a tourist--"So...what do you do around here for fun?" The question points to our rural existence in a way that I used to find slightly offensive, wanting to respond with the same things most of you do. We go to parties, we make love, we eat, we watch a film now and then. But I get it, I do. We're a bit off the main grid. If I had time, I sometimes answered the visitor with a list of my own hobbies. If I didn't, I replied with "Oh, when you're curious, you find lots of things to do." I stopped relying on that answer when I found out it that it was also a quotation attributed to Walt Disney, but it's still an idea that I hold on to when I find myself alone on a day off from work, all my menial chores are accomplished, and I can't sit still to read. When those circumstances arise, it is time to be curious. Checking out every dirt road in the county, followed by their branching paths, creates enough activity to fill many summers worth of such days.

Thanks our natural industries, there's an almost infinite number of dirt roads in our county. The following is an image of Lake Ainslie as seen from a short distance up a gravel pit road located at  
N 46 11 004 W 061 14 370 (about ten minutes up Deepdale Road from Inverness). I caught this view today while searching for a geocache a short climb from the road's end. The view was great, and the black flies minimal.The geocache itself was less rewarding, having been blocked in by thick alders that have grown up since its placement.




Geocaches in Area:
"Mounting the Lake Ainslie Haven (RR #2)" N 46° 11.195 W 061° 14.024 Status: Area grown in (2013-06-18) GCVWTT.

Thursday 13 June 2013

Le Chemin du Buttereau

Le chemin du Buttereau is an old trail that connected the community of Le Buttereau to the neighboring village of Chéticamp from the late 1700s until the Cabot Trail opened in the 1930s. At 4.6 kilometres return, it's not an overly long hike and makes a nice walk on a hot day if you wish you spend some time out of direct sunlight. It rises from 25 to 65 m (80 to 215 feet), so it's not the steepest trail, though there's one a small climb in sections. The term "buttereau" actually means small hill, and this slight rise will take you above the Cheticamp River and Gulf of St. Lawrence for some nice views. The trail is self-guilding, winding through mixed Acadian forest and around old foundation ruins. Beginning at its southern end or first entrance, you'll feel at first as though you're heading back towards Cheticamp, only to begin curving to the north right away. 


 

The remains of old foundations that you pass belonged to the families who lived here, including David à Sambo and Rose Chiasson (and their 10 kids), Georges à Cacoune and Josephine LeBrun (and their 10 kids), Séverin à Édouard and Nélée LeBlanc (and their 10 kids), Joseph à Cacoune and Marie Deveau (and their 11 kids), and Auguste à Édouard and Hélène LeBlanc (and their 9 kids). The names following the husbands are those of their fathers. After a few old remains, you'll notice the covering to an old well to the left.




 

When you reach an intersection where you can go left or right, you have reached Le Buttereau, the loop part of the trail. It's well worth it to catch the views from these look-offs. During the fishing season, you can see boats out here. An informative panel along the trail tells us that the original inhabitants of Le Buttereau would head to La Bloque or Chéticamp Harbour to meet with the boats, and stay for the week before returning home. At 50 cents for 100 lobsters, they were only eking out a living for themselves.








Though you can loop around Le Buttereau, finishing it til its end will you give you the following views. When you get to the opposite end of the trail, you'll be looking at the Grand Falaise (the Big Cliffs).






The parking area at the Grand Falaise is where you might wish to begin another excursion that I discussed on another day, a waterfall that is very rewarding if you're careful to get there--Righwash Brook Falls.

Shean Trail: Inverness to Kenloch Church

I'm a cigarette smoker who bikes, hikes, and can occasionally train to run up to 5 miles, only to quit when it becomes easier and thus boring. On my good days, I may consider myself to be an enigma. On my bad days, I'm nothing but a shithead. In any case, I like to be outdoors and I'm willing to work hard to get to a beautiful scene (climb mountains to see valleys). But I'm not the type to run for running's sake. Or bike. Or whatever the case may be. So I'm not going to get out my bicycle and start doing the Cabot Trail on the exact same road that can be driven. Sometimes I even think it's horrible that we encourage such an activity on a twisty, cliff-side road with no bike lane. When I hike or bike, it's usually because I'm going someplace that cannot be driven. When I do feel like moderate exercise, I stick to the easier routes. Behold--the Inverness Rail-Trail (officially the "Shean Trail" segment of the Trans-Canada trail).

The Rail-Trail is a multi-use trail built upon the old railway bed that stretches from Inverness right to the Canso Causeway--about 92 kilometers, mostly closely following Route 19, the paved "Ceilidh Trail" highway that leads Margaree Forks to Canso. Its parts have localized names. Today I stuck to the Shean segment, running alongside the town of Inverness, but I've also spent a lot of time in the Mabou Rivers segment and the Ceilidh Coastal segments (I'll save those for another day). Depending on where you begin on the trail, it could be considered quite boring on foot. What makes this my preferred biking trail is that its fantastically flat--more or less from this end of town (Inverness) to the Causeway. Conventional trains did not go up steep inclines because of the traction that would be required against the steel rails.

This particular section of railway was completed in 1901. The story goes that the government paid for the route to stretch right to Chéticamp, but the constructors of the railway were also the owners of the coal mines in Inverness, so they quit once it reach their own desired destination and were never forced to continue. The railway was used for commercial passenger travel, but mostly for coal transport. The company went into receivership in 1929 and the railway became part of the Canadian National Railway until they stopped running the trains here in 1986. After this section of rail was closed, many volunteer groups, including the Judique Flyer Association, the Inverness Trails Federation, the Chestico Trail, and the Ceilidh Coastal Trail Association, as well as different levels of government agencies, made a joint effort to build a multi-use trail on top of the stripped rail bed, making it part of the Trans Canada Trail--the world's longest connection of trails. When completed, it will stretch over 23,0 00 kilometers and connect Canadians from the Atlantic, Pacific, and Arctic Oceans.

You can begin the trail at any number of access points. It begins at the Inverness Railway Station that is now the Inverness Miner's Museum. I rarely park there, since there's an access on the other side of the road and I don't want to be in town long with my dog, who I take with me whenever she and I are both up for it. She listens well enough that I don't feel the need for a leash and can get a good run in there. Most of the trail is a good distance from the road, though there are some places where the trail runs almost alongside, or where it crosses side roads or private properties near which a dog needs to watched carefully. In any case, I usually park near the visitor's center or Gables Motel and walk over to the trail from there. You'll see the signs marking its beginnings. Another good access from Inverness (and quieter if you've got your own pup with you) is to head up the Deepdale Road just after Inverness (toward Lake Ainslie) and park at the access that's right at the Kenloch church on your right side after a few minute's drive. A tip to finding such access points is to look for signs warning of ATV crossings, since 4-wheelers and snowmobiles regularly use these trails. Once on the trail, kilometer markers that run from south to north will be a guide to where you are.

There have been many improvements to the trail made in recent years--drainage is excellent, the bridges and their approaches well-maintained, and so forth. I was happy to have excellent biking in Inverness on this day, for the Mabou Rivers section that I did not so long ago had a fine sand surface placed on it, making a lazy biker like me just a tad bit slowed-down (though it's a pretty section and should not be skipped).



One of my favorite features is the Deepdale Trestle bridge, high above a deep gorge.


The Sean section of trail has many small branch-offs leading uphill from which great views of the Inverness Harbor and Cape Mabou Highlands can be seen. I usually leave my bike at the bottom for these and walk up.

Not part of the trail, but one of many branch-offs above town from which great views can be reached.


 Geocaches in Area: 
"Hurricane Series" (Series) Status: Some good, some bad (2013-06-13) i.e. GC2ET93
"Blueberry Stash"  N 46° 13.435 W 061° 18.477 Status: Missing (2013-06-13) GC2CZFC

Friday 7 June 2013

Chéticamp Island

Though I'm from the area, I appreciate the value of having a day off and pretending to be a tourist, revisiting old favorite spots and searching for something new and different that wasn't seen before. Today I went for a coffee run to Cheticamp and ended up exploring Cheticamp Island from one end to the other.
 

















Geocaches in Area:
"Cheticamp Island Cemetary" N 46° 36.302 W 061° 03.425 Status: Good (2013-06-07) GC354Y9
"Frenchy's Playground - Welcome Home" N 46° 38.930 W 061° 01.554 Status: Good (2013-06-07) GC1K5X2

Tuesday 4 June 2013

Bald Mountain

Spontaneous road-trips, followed by little-planned hikes, will one day be the death of my vehicle. I think one of the biggest mistakes I made in my twenties was my decision to buy my Civic. With my bad university credit not yet buried behind me, my payments are outrageous (thanks, subprime!) and the car is just entirely all wrong for me. First of all, I like to take my dog places. This car is a two-door, non-hatchback style--meaning it is all but impossible to save both front and back seats from the wrath of my mutt, Ella. Cover one seat, and she's bound to choose the other to land on. Secondly, my '09 model is about as low as a car should ever be legally allowed to get in Cape Breton. Just in my regular driving alone, which admittedly includes a few bumper scrapes in Sydney, I've managed to tear off a front fender clip, then months later lose the entire fender (fell off because of snow drift, plus said clip), and split my windshield washer tank. While the coupe's fuel economy is admirable, it is not the best road-tripping vehicle for some of the more rural parts of the island.

Thank God for travel companions who think to check the depth of pot-holes. Here is Russell throwing stones on the road ahead.

Today, however, that car made me proud--enough to continually discuss names for her on the route. I'm not naturally a namer of cars. At least, I don't have the passion and discipline required to perfectly name a car, then stick with that name (most of my vehicles have had several names over their lifetimes). This particular route that elicited so much car-love was the trek up Bald Mountain, past the end of Big Baddeck Road in Big Glen. We took Sandy? Gerry? (I've forgotten already) to places she should never have gone--several times in the wrong direction, then too far in the right direction). An online description suggests the trailhead is at N 46° 14.139 W 060° 40.969, with the trail starting to the WEST of this location, but my GPS did not seem to want to keep up with me on this day. In any case, we eventually found ourselves on track.

For the end of April, there was still a great deal of snow in some places, and we found ourselves too far into a classic road-that-turns-into-an-ATV-path to turn around. We continually spoke of our stupidity for not bringing our X-Terra instead, our gas-guzzling 4-wheel drive titan. In any case, we made it past the snow, high water, and washed-out sections of road to make it to McMillan cemetery.




We decided to park here, at this entirely unexpected cemetery. I hadn't read about it when I decided to go to Bald Mountain, but I still had it programmed into my GPS from my last cemetery tour of Baddeck (there are a series of geocaches planted at cemeteries all over Baddeck, and some are way off the beaten path). On that day, we spent a full eight hours or so searching out cemeteries, and never came close to this one, so we left it off the list. I was happy for this chance stumble-upon, and to see some of the older graves at this site in the middle of nowhere.
I wanted to name the car Alex, after the person to whom this headstone belongs, but that's also the name of Russell's boss, so he vetoed the idea.
After the cemetery, we started hiking. And falling. And hiking. And falling. I could tell that the trail would actually be a fairly easy climb up in summer, but there was a lot more snow than we were prepared for, and the constant shifting between snow, water, and gravel meant that we probably wouldn't have used our snowshoes even if we had brought them. In any case, we both had soaked feet by the time we got to the top and were relieved to reach the summit.



Me, wringing out my socks.


Geocaches in area: 
"McMillan Cemetary" N 46° 13.733 W 060° 41.598 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC2X6R2
Trek to Bald Mountain 1 of 4" N 46° 14.206 W 060° 41.168 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC2YDMG
"Trek to Bald Mountain 2 of 4" N 46° 14.524 W 060° 41.504 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC2YDMC
"Trek to Bald Mountain 3 of 4" N 46° 14.927 W 060° 41.480 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC2YDM5
"Trek to Bald Mountain 4 of 4" N 46° 15.269 W 060° 41.379 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC2YDKT
"Why We Cache" N 46° 15.350 W 060° 41.234 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC2YDKF
"The Lookoff"  N 46° 15.493 W 060° 41.152 Status: Good (4/6/13)  GC2X6PB                  
"Bald Mountain Summit" N 46° 15.918 W 060° 41.143 Status: Good (4/6/13) GC3N0CG